The last stop on our road trip California was San Francisco. One of the items on our bucket list was a trip to Alcatraz Island but we’d read some online reviews and there were some very negative ones. As part of our travel research, we’ll read reviews of attractions we’re interested in to get a feel of others’ experience. We take these things with a grain of salt however as not every attraction is for everyone. I’ve even seen some reviews that say Machu Picchu is overrated so you can take that for what it’s worth. Reviews be damned, we’re going to the Rock!

Getting there.

We prebooked the early morning tour to beat the crowds and walked from our nearby hotel to Pier 33 on the Embarcadero. The Embarcadero is a major roadway and waterfront area along the eastern shore of San Francisco. It’s known for its scenic views, piers, shops, restaurants and sea lions that hang out on Pier 39. We were on one of the first ferries out on this a cool and blustery morning in January. The weather did improve as the day wore on and it turned out to be a beautiful day. Getting to the island takes about 25 minutes as it’s located about 1.5 miles (2 km) offshore.

Some history.

The island was first developed the facilitate the construction of what would be the first lighthouse on the California coast, (1854) It would also serve as an army garrison a few years later and as a military prison by 1868. In 1934, Alcatraz was converted into a Federal prison and housed some of the most notorious convicts like Al Capone and Machine Gun Kelly. It’s now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and is a very popular tourist attraction.

Staff and family Housing.

We left the area of the ferry docks, and walked down pathways past staff and family housing, the schoolhouse and military workshops. Staff members, including the warden, correctional officers, medical providers, and clerks, lived in government-owned apartments, cottages, and houses on the island. These residences were located in various parts of the island, providing a close-knit community feel. Some buildings looked to be in somewhat descent shape, others a bit dilapidated and burned out. This all adds to the eerie, ghostly feeling that is Alcatraz.

You can opt to stop at the main cell block entrance for a tour or continue on up the pathway to the highest point on the island which is 135 ft (41 meters.) We decided to do the tour first and then explore the island at our own pace.

Prisoner intake.

The tour begins when you enter the main cell block area. We were outfitted with headsets with commentary narrated by some former prisoners and guards. The narration was well done and was very authentic, transporting you back to that time. The first stop was the prisoner intake area where the new inmates would be stripped, searched, have a shower and issued their clothing and bedding.

Cell blocks.

Life on Alcatraz was harsh and regimented. Inmates were confined to small cells which were cold and damp as there was no heat. There was limited contact with the outside world and the prison’s strict rules and severe punishments were intended to break the spirits of its inmates. Despite the harsh conditions, some prisoners found ways to cope, forming friendships and engaging in creative pursuits like painting and music. The rows of cells are three storeys high but there’s no access to the upper floors during the tour. The cells with the green doors were for solitary confinement, aka “The Hole.”

Some prisoners passed the time by drawing and painting or taking out books from the library.

Prison library.

The prison library was an essential part of life for inmates at Alcatraz. Located at the end of D-Block, the library housed between 10,000 to 15,000 books. Inmates received a library card and a catalog of available books upon entering the prison. They could order books by submitting a request slip, which would be delivered to their cells. They were allowed to have up to three books at a time, however, materials related to crime and violence were strictly prohibited. A law library was also available in A-Block, providing legal resources for inmates.

The control room.

The control room at Alcatraz is a fascinating part of its history. There are actually two notable control rooms associated with Alcatraz. The Main Control Room: This was part of the operational infrastructure of the prison, where guards monitored inmate activities and managed security systems. It was crucial for maintaining order and ensuring the high-security standards of the prison. The Secret Control Room: This is more of a legend and part of the lore surrounding Alcatraz. According to some sources, this room was located in secret tunnels beneath the lighthouse and was accessed using the Warden’s keys. We could not substantiate that during our visit, but it all adds to the mysticism and folklore of the Rock.

Escape attempts.

Despite its reputation as an inescapable fortress, there were several daring escape attempts from Alcatraz. The most famous occurred in 1962 when Frank Morris and the Anglin brothers managed to break out of their cells and disappear into the waters of San Francisco Bay. Their fate remains a mystery, adding to the island’s mystique. I couldn’t help but think of the movie “The Shawshank Redemption” at this point in the tour.

Infamous prisoners.

Kitchen and dining.

The kitchen at Alcatraz, located adjacent to the dining hall, was a crucial part of the prison’s daily operations. It was equipped to handle the preparation of meals for both inmates and staff. The kitchen staff, which included inmates, prepared three meals a day. The food served at Alcatraz was reputed to be among the best in the U.S. prison system. To avoid the smuggling out of kitchen tools that could be used as weapons, all utensils were counted after meals. There was also a metal detector outside the dining hall.

Recreation.

After the tour, we went outside to check out the recreational yard which had high walls and was quite spacious. The building’s steps were built to resemble bleachers, alongside of which were two shuffleboard courts. A heavy metal door, now just a rusted shell, opened to views of the San Francisco Bay and access to the gardens by way of a set of stairs.

The Gardens.

The gardens of Alcatraz date back to the late 19th century when the island was used as a military fortification. These gardens offer stunning views of San Francisco Bay and are filled with colorful flowers and shrubs. Soldiers and their families began cultivating gardens to improve the harsh living conditions. When Alcatraz became a federal penitentiary in 1934, the tradition continued. Inmates were assigned to garden work as part of their rehabilitation, transforming the barren rock into a lush landscape. Inmates cultivated these gardens, which include a variety of flowers, vegetables, and herbs. Working in the gardens provided a therapeutic escape from the harsh realities of prison life. After the prison closed in 1963, the gardens were neglected and fell into disrepair. However, in 2003, the Garden Conservancy and the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy partnered with the National Park Service to restore and maintain the gardens. They are welcoming sight for visitors arriving on the otherwise harsh and dreary island environment.

An interesting story about the gardens. During his time at Alcatraz, an inmate by the name of Elliott Michener, found a key that had been dropped by a guard. Instead of using it to attempt an escape, he turned it in to the authorities. This act of honesty led to him being assigned as a gardener, where he spent years gaining knowledge of horticulture, all the while adding more style and beauty to the existing gardens. Gardening provided him with a sense of purpose and a break from the harsh conditions of the prison.  

Other areas of interest.

The morgue, with its ghoulish, morbid feel, the administration buildings and the tunnel system were all quite interesting and in different stages of decay. Several areas of Alcatraz have been taken over by moss, adding to its eerie and abandoned atmosphere. The island is also home to several colonies for several seabird species, including Cormorants, Pigeon Guillemots, Western Gulls, and Black Oystercatchers. 

The Indian occupation.

Alcatraz prison was closed in 1963, and 1969, a group of Native Americans started an occupation which lasted 19 months. They were protesting against what they deemed unfair federal government policies. The 1960’s were turbulent times of course with lots of activism but I can’t recall ever hearing about this incident. To learn more, I’ve added this link. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcatraz_Island#Native_American_occupation

Alcatraz Island is more than just a former prison, it’s a place where history, nature, and human stories intertwine. The prison was commissioned strictly for men and in its entire history, there were never any female prisoners. There were also no female guards, administrators, or any women ever hired at the prison, and many of the men went as many as 20 years without hearing a female voice. Whether you’re a lover of history, nature, or simply curious, a visit to Alcatraz offers a unique and unforgettable experience. We as history buffs in our own right, learned so much from this visit, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the “rock.”

 Alcatraz Cruises is the official ferry of the National Park Service and is the only company authorized to operate ferry services to and from Alcatraz Island. Other tour operators do sailings in the Bay and around the island but are not allowed to dock so keep that in mind when booking your excursion.